For more information visit http://www.leatherstockingsheepdogtrials.com

Recently a few different studies have identified that dogs with a mutation in the MDR-1 gene are more susceptible to having allergic reactions to certain chemical classifications. Dogs with this sensitivity can suffer acute and often fatal neurotoxicosis (poison of the nerve tissue in the brain or spinal cord.)

The primary concern is with ivermectin sensitivity. Ivermectin is the primary ingredient in Heartgard heartworm prevention, but is also the drug used to treat dogs that are diagnosed as heartworm positive.

While even dogs with the sensitivity SHOULD be able to tolerate a dosage suitable for heartworm prevention, if you have a dog that ranks higher on the susceptibility list, you may want to consult with your veterinarian.

Breeds affected by the MDR1 mutation and approximate frequency %:
Collie 70 %
Australian Shepherd 50%
Australian Shepherd, Mini 50%
Shetland Sheepdog 15 %
German Shepherd 10 %
Old English Sheepdog 5 %
Border Collie < 5%

A complete list of breeds can be found in the report from Washington State University:
http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-VCPL/breeds.aspx

For more information on ivermectin sensitivity visit the American Working Collie Association drug sensitivity page: http://www.awca.net/drug.htm.

There are a few different companies that offer dry dog food with organic ingredients, but our dogs are currently enjoying these two: by Nature Organics and Health Extension Original.

by Nature Organics includes not only organic chicken as the first ingredient, but also includes organic grains, vegetables and fruits, such as organic ground brown rice, organic ground oats, organic peas, carrots and cranberries. The kibble is essentially round and the size is quite small, about half the size of a pea. The protein content is 27%.

In addition to the dry kibble, by Nature Organics offers 4 canned food varieties 2 of which are 100% meat (one is organic turkey, one is organic chicken). The other two canned formulas are a mixture of meat and vegetables.

The other food my guys are really enjoying right now is Health Extension Original formula by Vet’s Choice. While the only organic ingredient in this formula is the first ingredient – organic chicken, the rest of the ingredients are high quality, with all formulas including: fish oil, primrose oil, glucosamine, chondroitin, colostrum, blue green algae, prebiotics and probioitcs. The kibble is a thick disc shape, but also small, about the size of a small pea. The protein content is 24%. For folks with small dogs looking for a small kibble size, the Health Extension Little Bites formula has the smallest kibble I’ve seen.

Vet’s Choice claims that All Health Extension products are made in the USA and none of the raw materials used in the production of the food originate in China. The company, located in Melville, NY, family owned and in operation since 1975, has never been involved in a recall.

The Cornell University Animal Health Diagnostic Center announces the development of a new multiplex test for dogs and horses that can help determine if the infection is a new development or something that has reached a chronic stage. The test can also distinguish between an infection verses a dog or horse that has been vaccinated against Lyme disease. More information means better opportunities for a targeted treatment plan.

Lyme disease develops from a bacteria transmitted to the host by infected ticks. Typical symptoms in dogs include fever, arthritis and lameness, which usually develop 2-5 months after exposure. With Lyme disease, the longer the disease has been in the body, the more acute the symptoms, so catching the disease early is beneficial.

The cost of the test is listed as $36.00, but related services by your vet, such as drawing blood, means that the total cost will be higher.

This new test was released June 15, 2011, so if you are concerned about Lyme disease, be sure to mention this new information to your vet and have them look it up if they don’t already know about it.

To read more details, see the following PDF released from Cornell:

http://ahdc.vet.cornell.edu/docs/Lyme_Disease_Multiplex_Testing_for_Dogs.pdf

Pet Armor

There’s starting to be a lot of talk about generic versions of Frontline that are hitting the market. The generic forms use fipronil, the primary active ingredient in Frontline. While available in places at close to half the price of the branded Frontline product, there still seem to be some concerns that need to be resolved. Here’s what I’ve heard, but can’t verify yet:

• The patent for part of the formula expired, but not the carrier that distributes the product over the animal’s body, so generic forms are using a different carrier, which has not yet proven its level of effectiveness.
• The patent for Frontline expired, but not Frontline Plus, the version that kills flea eggs and larvae in addition to adult fleas and ticks. Companies that have leveraged the Frontline Plus formula may be pursued by Merial to discontinue production.
• Some veterinarians are reporting more incidents of side effects, such as lethargy from dogs that have been given a generic form.
• Some owners have reported feeling like the generic form is “greasier” than the standard Frontline.

Most veterinarians that I’ve heard from are cautious to advocate one way or the other.

Until the generic products are more widely available in the marketplace and therefore used on more pets, we probably won’t really know if there are any problems to be concerned about.

The first generic version to hit the market is called Pet Armor. Others are sure to follow.

If you’ve ever had to pay $500 or more to have your dog or cat’s teeth cleaned, then it might be time to consider some of the oral hygiene products available on the market today. Topiclean’s natural Fresh Breath Water Additive is easy to use and really does work to significantly reduce the amount of plaque and tarter on your pet’s teeth.
Just like with people, when dogs or cats have persistent bad breath, it is usually caused by poor oral hygiene or oral disease. By reducing plaque and improving oral health, the bad breath goes away too.
As a water additive, just add a teaspoonful of the product to your pet’s water at least once a day (the company recommends every time you fill the water bowl). The product ingredients include aloe vera and green tea extract, which you will be able to smell when you use the product. That means your pet can smell it too.
I thought the smell might lead my dogs to drink less water, so I only used the product once a day, but the dogs seemed to get use to the smell after a couple days and it didn’t seem to bother them in any way. I used the product consistently for about two months and definitely noticed a reduction in the amount of plaque and build up on all the dog’s teeth.
If this helps avoid an expensive dental cleaning for the dogs, including avoiding the anesthetic that comes with a dental cleaning, and it improves their overall heath, I’m all for it.
There are other products on the market the make the same or similar claims, such as the water additive from Pet Kiss. Also a natural product, the Pet Kiss product did not have as strong of a smell and seemed to do an equally good job at removing the plaque from the dog’s teeth.

Mini Skinneeez Squirrel

Dogs can hone their natural instincts to track and wrestle small critters with the floppy Mini Skinneeez Squirrel from Ethical Pet. It has two squeakers, one the tail and one in the head, and no stuffing, so less mess if it gets ripped. Soft, easy to grab and great for shaking, these toys hold up well to hours of slobber, flipping, tossing and tugging.
The Skinneeez line comes in a wide assortment of critters, from forest animals, such as the squirrel, to an exotic Flamingo or an endangered Polar Bear. They also come in two sizes. The Mini’s, for smaller dogs, range between 14-17 inches long and the standard size critters range from 17-23 inches long.

If there is information in the car about what to do with the dogs, the police will do their best to follow it.

So take a couple minutes and do this today!

Create a document using the outline below as a guide and tuck it in your glove compartment for a day that hopefully never happens. Remember to agree on this plan with your contacts ahead of time, so they know what to do if they get the call.

TO ANYONE FINDING DOGS IN THIS CAR OR DOGS WHO HAVE FLED FROM THE CAR IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT

CONTACT
[fill in the name of one or two reliable people to contact]

IMMEDIATELY
[fill in as many phone numbers are you have for these people]

WHEN CONTACTED THESE PEOPLE WILL COME GET THE DOGS AND/OR
PAY FOR ANY VET EXPENSES NEEDED FOR THEIR EMERGENCY NEEDS OR BOARDING

PLEASE CONTACT ANY TIME OF DAY OR NIGHT

Look for strong competitors, such as Beverly Lambert with Mirk, Mick Warren with Dale and Cheryl Williams with Spot.

To earn points toward the Nationals, there is a time limit for each contestant, and they must complete a course will be similar to the following as described on the National Trial website:

The course begins with the Outrun (20 points). The handler will send the dog (according to his or her choice) either clockwise or counterclockwise. The dog must cast out in a deep, pear-shaped arc (without additional commands) that will end when the dog is directly behind the sheep. Dogs who arrive too close to the sheep may upset them; dogs who travel in too wide a path will not reach the sheep quickly and efficiently.

The Lift (10 points) is the critical point at which the dog and sheep meet and assess one another. The sheep should start down the field in a straight, orderly fashion. It is at the lift that the dog and sheep begin a relationship that will be maintained throughout the remainder of the run. Dogs that push too hard will cause the sheep to be wild and unsettled; dogs that are too tactful may have trouble convincing their sheep to march along the course. If the dog has been kind but authoritative, the sheep will be respectful and orderly. Points will be deducted for too slow or too rough a lift, or for sheep moving in any direction other than straight to the handler.

The Fetch (20 points) begins immediately after the lift. It should be absolutely straight and should, like all phases of work in the trial, be efficient and workmanlike. The sheep should come right through the center of the fetch gates in the middle of the field and pass behind the handler at the post. Points will be deducted for a dog who “rings” his sheep (runs all the way around them on the fetch), or who pushes the sheep off the line, or whose sheep miss the fetch gates, or whose sheep turn the wrong way around the handler’s post.

The Drive (30 points) starts at the back of the handler’s post. The sheep must go in a straight line to the first drive gates, make a sharp turn toward the second drive gates, and return in a straight line to the pen. The straighter the lines and the tighter the turns, the better the drive score will be. Points will be deducted for imprecise lines, missed panels, and (as on the fetch) for dogs who ring their sheep rather than remaining behind them.

The drive ends when the sheep are at the mouth of the Pen (10 points). Ideally, the sheep should enter the pen without hesitation at the pen mouth. Points will be deducted for sheep that balk before going in, and more points will be deducted for sheep that circle the pen before going in (the more circles, the more points deducted).

After the pen, the dog and handler will take the sheep into a marked ring for the Shed (10 points). The handler must line the sheep up in a row and call the dog through to turn on the last single. In the ideal shed, the sheep in front of the dog will feel able to escape, and the last sheep will feel unable to join them because of the authority of the dog. Proper sheds are taken on the head, with the dog face to face with the chosen sheep before turning her. Shed points will be deducted for too much of the work done by the handler and not enough by the dog, failed attempts, and sheep that leave the marked ring.

There’s basically two solutions to the problem – management and training.

The management part means always having Sophie on leash, but the limitation of this approach is sometimes mistakes happen and Sophie gets loose. The second option – training – works, but only with a lot of time, dedication and repetition. That’s true with any dog, but with hounds it can take even more effort since their nose tends to turn off their brain. So the goal is to train to the point that coming when called is automatic and triumphs over instinct.

For anyone working on achieving the automatic recall, here are some guidelines for getting there.

Begin teaching the recall word, such as “come” or “here” in a place where there are very few distractions, such as in a room in the house. Start at a short distance (3-5 feet), say the word and encourage her to come to you. Reward with a really yummy treat (chicken). When training, try to use a treat that high value and something she doesn’t get at any other time (keep it special). After she comes to you, reward her with the treat and then just ignore her. She will eventually wonder off and then you can try to call her again. Always reward with the treat. You can fade this later, but in the beginning, keep it worth it for her. GRADULLY increase distance.

Once you are able to call her across the length or a room, move into different rooms and across the house, then upstairs – hallways are good. Once you have a reliable recall in the house, move to the garage. Once solid there move the back yard. Each time you change environments, start over close to her and then gradually increase the distance.

Gradually increase distractions (in the house, but with kids playing nearby). Training is all about building blocks and baby steps. Keep sessions short (5-10 minutes). More short sessions are much better than one long session a day.

If at any time in this process you try to call your dog and she doesn’t come to you, then you are either too far away, not exciting enough, or you advanced too far too fast. This then is your fault, not hers. Start over in a less distracting environment, closer, or make your voice higher pitched to encourage her.

This is a great relationship building process and definately is worth doing, but know that while you might make headway fairly quickly early on, it may ultimately take a year of dedicated training to get where you want to be. (I’m still working on my dog Baxter, but I’m not as dedicated as I could be.)

There are a couple other ‘games’ a family can play together that helps reinforce the right behavior.

Variation 1: At least two people are needed for this exercise. Take turns calling your dog down a hallway or in the kitchen. As she is coming to you, encourage her with enthusiasm. Every time she comes to someone have her sit, touch her collar and then give her the treat. If you ask her to sit and she doesn’t, then she doesn’t get the treat. Your attitude should still be upbeat, but it is very important to only reward correct behavior. Rather than repeatedly asking her to sit, have the other person try calling her.

Variation 2, Hide and Seek: At least two people are needed for this exercise. One person holds on to the dog while the other person goes and hides. The hiding person says “[Dog's Name] Come!!”. When she arrives a greeting celebration should ensue. During this time the other person hides. The dog is then sent, on that person’s command, to make another find.

Variation 3, Random: Only one person is needed for this exercise. At random times, call your dog and reward her with a treat or play session. Try to pick times when you are pretty certain she will want to come anyway. In fact, you can precede all enjoyable activities with a recall, so that your dog learns something good is always going to happen when she hears the word “Come”.

Once the above variations are going well, add this exercise that requires two people:
One person is the handler and the other person is the distracter. The handler has no treats, or any kind of reward on him. The distracter has rewards like good food and maybe toys. The distracter shows your dog that he has these wonderful things, but doesn’t let her have any of them.
The handler goes a short distance away and calls your dog. The dog may ignore the handler and try to get the reward from the distracter. The distracter must ignore all attention from the dog, including barking, jumping up, etc. The distracter becomes a block of ice. The handler keeps calling the dog, encouraging her with voice and fun movements, while remaining in place.
Sooner or letter, the dog will begin moving toward the handler. As soon as this happens, praise enthusiastically. When she arrives at the handler and sits, the distracter immediately runs over and gives a big treat or a good toy to the handler who in turn immediately gives the toy or treat to the dog. After a minute of play to break any tension, repeat the exercise with the same two people acting in the same roles. The repeat of the exercise starts by the distracter moving away and then the handler starting to call the dog again.
This exercise will teach your dog that the way to get what the distracter has is to do what the handler is saying. This exercise can take time and patience, so be prepared. If done correctly, and after a number of repetitions, you should end up with your dog flying off the distracter in order to respond to the handler’s command to come. If your dog thinks she’s getting smart by coming to the handler before the handler has issued the “Come” command, simply ignore her.
Once the exercise has been repeated with the same two people in the same roles of distracter and handler, switch roles so that your dog learns that the command “Come” is the key thing, not a specific person.